Story and photos by Anthony Savvides
On Saturday afternoon, the sun was shining over Foligno as thousands of tourists and Italians flocked to the third day of the “Primi d’Italia” national food festival. I was one of the many, and I dragged three friends along with me. The four of us – from New York, Sydney, Thessaloniki and Brasilia – were very excited to sample more of the rich Italian cuisine. Is there a better way to spend a lovely early-Autumn afternoon?
We meandered through the crowded streets, where tables were set up throughout the city, independently and apart from the official goings-on of the 14th annual celebration of regional Italian cuisine. The base of operations for the event was located in Piazza della Repubblica, where the information point desk was staffed with smiling facing and lined with maps and menus.
After a quick stop, my friends and I were ready to begin our stroll through the “Villaggi del Gusto” and decided that our first course would be at the “Villaggio del Tartufo.” After a short wait in line, we were served two pasta dishes: one, covered in a creamy cheese and mushroom sauce, and spaghetti primavera in a light oil sauce. The mushroom dish was very heavy, while the primavera was bursting with flavor. All of the dishes were cleared rather quickly, and then we were off to another tasting.
For our second course, we decided to drop into the Village of Polenta, where there were four options: polenta, risotto, gnocchi and penne. Each of us ordered a different option, and thus we were able to try out each of the four dishes available. The risotto seemed bland compared to the gnocchi, which was perfectly cooked with tomatoes and mushrooms. The pesto penne was popping with fresh basil and garlic overtones. The highlight, however, was the creamy risotto cooked with prosciutto, peas and onions.
After tackling two of the taste villages, we decided to walk around the historic city and explore rather than plop another dish of food in front of us. As we strolled through Foligno, though, we made shorter stops in the markets and at street vendors. In the main market, we were overwhelmed by the options from all over Italy, right around us: pistachio, hazelnut and cantaloupe liquors; prosciutto and salsicce; fresh fig, apricot and peach jams. The marketplace held our attention for a large portion of the afternoon.
Eventually, we made our way to the Village of Sweets, where we split one dish with a sample of each available dessert. There was the rice ball covered in coconut and cocoa, the oversized pasta shell filled with sweet custard and crushed nuts and the grain and cinnamon chocolate cake. All of the pastries were complemented by a sweet pink zinfandel.
As we sat in under the towering arches, the sun began to dip. We gathered our belongings, made our way to Piazza della Repubblica for souvenirs, and set off toward the train station. We arrived back in Perugia a short 30 minutes later, still smiling and still talking about the food. I wish “Primi d’Italia” were a daily festival in Foligno. Until next year, buon appetito.